NYFW Spring 2013: A Detacher, Belstaff, Betsey Johnson, Christian Siriano, Carolina Herrera, Costello Tagliapietra, Edun, Mandy Coon, Nicole Miller, Ostwald Helgason, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Peter Som, Rebecca Minkoff, Richard Chai Love, Suno

You've been warned -- this is a pretty picture-heavy post.


Jumping right in, A Detacher caught my eye last week, but looking at this image now, I'm not entirely sure why. I do like the pattern used on the two outfits to the right, which makes me think of a simplified toile pattern. Other than that, I appreciate that dark colors are used, but they don't seem oppressive -- key for my idea of springtime dressing.

Of note: Head to toe prints, black and white, cross strap heels, a touch of metallic.


Next up is Belstaff, which I kept dyslexifying (totally just made that word up) as "Belfast". Anyway -- I love the leather safari/motorcycle jacket hybrid in the last look on the bottom. I also enjoy the use of stripes both as a vertical pattern and as accents that highlight the pieces' construction. Finally, I've just noticed a similarity between this and A Detacher: ankle strap shoes. In particular, a very high ankle strap. A word of warning for those of you who want to try this look, a high thick strap does not look particularly nice on thicker legs. Of course, if you don't care about that, go for it!

Of note: High ankle straps, leather pieces, thick vertical stripes.


Betsey, Betsey, Betsey. I'm usually not a big fan at all, because the runway shows seem a little... out there, to say the least. I don't dislike the clothes, but I am fully aware that I am not a part of her target audience. As usual, Betsey Johnson had some very beautiful party dresses (see the last two looks), but my favorite piece was actually the full length orange raincoat... thing. I haven't the slightest idea how I could wear this in public without looking tragic, but I'm sure someone can, and it'd definitely look nice in editorials.

Of note: Crinolines and otherwise puffy skirts, vibrant, juicy almost neon colors.


This year, Christian Siriano's offering looked quite different from his usual. However, I think this worked well for him. I think the construction of these pieces shines through and affirms what most of us already knew -- Mr. Siriano, despite coming from a reality show, has serious talent.

Of note: Very pale colors, sumptuous fabrics like satin, silk, and tulle.


All I really want to say about Carolina Herrera is that I love the little embellishments on these outfits -- the scrolls on the waistband of the shorts (1st look), piping (2nd look), a splash of flowers (3rd look).

Of note: Little details as mentioned above. I've been spotting what may be a micro trend: In the second outfit, there's this piping/embellished seam that really adds visual interest to the dress. I've seen a little of this this summer, but I have noticed it in several other Spring 2013 collections. I think it's really beautiful, and a subtle nod to the linear, graphic trend that's been around for a little while. I hope it catches on and makes its way to the high street.


Of note: Soft (nearly) pastel colors, painterly prints, the return of the nude shoe.


An interesting mix at Edun, which, in my head, comes out as Floral Military. From the gladiator heels to the army jackets and bras made with what look like utility straps... it's all pretty interesting. To be honest, though, I prefer those pieces to the abstract floral prints used.

Of note: Very strappy heels, abstract/floral prints, visible layering.


The cutouts at Mandy Coon remind me of a polygraph or seismograph printout... I wonder if that's where the inspiration came from. And look, more high ankle straps!

Of note: Leather details, red shoes, light-reflective fabrics.


Of note: A patchwork, cut and paste look to dresses and leggings, warped natural prints.


 Logo t-shirts are back! Henry Holland did them a few years ago, and Phillip Lim brings them back in a more sophisticated incarnation. Seems like a little grit from the street got into the Phillip Girl's usual outfit. It's a welcome change.

Of note: Those logo shirts, of course! They'll be very versatile.



This collection from Peter Som seemed very "English Garden" to me. I don't remember what the designer said the inspiration was for the collection, but to be honest, I like to come up with my own stories. Anyway...

Of note: Lots of floral prints, LOTS of white, and a good amount of pastels.


It's coincidence that I posted this Rebecca Minkoff collage after Peter Som, but the two collections actual complement each other quite well. Same florals, same pale colors, same use of white as an anchor... The main difference is the feel of this collection. While Peter Som was soft and slightly reminiscent of Alice in Wonderland, Rebecca Minkoff's clothing is much more modern, and seems more suited to city life.

Of note: Same as above, but a modern feel is key.


On Twitter, I repeatedly mentioned the explosion of white that I noticed at NYFW shows... I have to be honest -- I'm not a fan of white. It is one of my least favorite colors. I just find it really, really boring. That being said, I appreciate what Richard Chai did here, mixing white with pale florals or using the silhouette to create interest.


And finally, we come to Suno. I find that as Suno goes to more muted palettes, I am liking them less. That's not to say the clothes aren't nice -- on the contrary, I quite like the pieces I posted above, especially the halter top/pencil skirt combo at right. However, I appreciated Suno for its unabashed love of color when it first debuted, and I don't find that to be there anymore.

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